Proper Planting of Trees, Shrubs and Evergreens
One of the great joys of landscaping is the planting of new trees and shrubs. When done properly, the plants flourish and the hard work is forgotten and replaced with a feeling of gratification. Unfortunately a great deal of misinformation abounds concerning the correct methods. By clicking on the pages below you will see our recommendations that are based upon many years of experience at Johnson's Nursery, Inc., and is echoed by current research in the fields of horticulture and arboriculture.
Click the link to read further on one of the page links to the pdf version:
 Proper Planting Techniques.pdf
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CONSIDERATIONS BEFORE PLANTING
Before planting is discussed, a few important points should be understood. First and foremost, proper plant selection is critical. Different plants have different growing requirements. Likewise each growing site offers a specific set of growing conditions such as light, soil types, etc.. The professional staff at Johnson's Nursery is here to assist you in analyzing your site and provide you with the best plant choices for your conditions.
Another important consideration prior to planting is the specific placement of plants in your landscape. The ultimate size of plants in your landscape. The ultimate size of the plant will often dictate the proper location in the landscape relative to other plants, buildings, utilities, etc.. Not only will good placement of plants enhance the aesthetic impact of your landscape, it will also reduce future maintenance considerations. Our staff is uniquely qualified to help you put the proper plant in the correct location so you can attain your goal of a healthy, beautiful landscape.
HANDLING PLANTS
Remember, plants are living things - handle with care. Always pick up plant material by the root ball or by the container, not by the trunk or stems. Also, plan ahead; plant as soon as possible upon receiving your plant material. If you are not ready for planting, let us take care of your plants for you at the nursery, until you are ready for them.
Keep in mind, plants and the containers or root balls they grow in are heavy; be sure you are capable of handling and planting your plants or have help available to assist you. Not only do you not want to damage your new plant investment, but you do not want to hurt yourself (particularly your back).
Johnson's Nursery would be happy to deliver your plant material with our trained staff. We will set the plant material where it is to be planted or, place the plants in you pre-dug hole. (You will be provided with hole depth and width specifications at the time of ordering).
PICKING UP PLANTS
If you chose to pickup your plants at the nursery with your vehicle, please come prepared. It is difficult to transport anything but small shrubs or perennials in most cars. Larger items such as trees, evergreens and larger shrubs demand the use of a pickup truck (usually without a cap) or trailer. when a truck or trailer is used, please bring the following items with you:
-Lightweight tarp or bedsheet
-Lightweight roping
-Small wooden blocks (2" x 4" or 4" x 4")
-Wadding (old towel, sections or carpet, or clothes)
A lightweight tarp or an old bedsheet helps protect the leaves or swollen buds from being ripped apart or desiccated by winds during transport to your landscape. Lightweight roping and small wooden blocks are useful in stabilizing the plant load. We do not want the plants to roll around, potentially causing physical damage to the plants, as well as causing and accident for you. Finally, a section of carpet or an old towel, when placed over the trunk or trailer's endgate, will help prevent scarring on the trunk during transport. We load your plant for you at the nursery. If you come prepared, you and your plants should have a safe ride home.
DIGGING THE PLANTING HOLE
Before planting, call Digger's Hotline to locate underground utilities on your property. Do not take chances!
In most case, we want you to plant your material slightly above (1-3") your existing grade. DO NOT DIG ANY DEEPER THAN THE PLANT'S ROOT BALL. (This rule does not apply to perennials or groundcovers which should be planted at existing grade).
Dig a wide hole, twice as wide as the root ball if possible, the wider the better.
Why do we recommend a wide and shallow planting hole? Root systems of most plants are relatively shallow with the majority of a plant's roots in the top foot of the soil. Because the majority of soils in the metro Milwaukee area are poorly drained, compact clay soils (especially on newly constructed homes or commercial properties), roots have a difficult time penetrating them. Soil that is loosened by digging and backfilling makes an environment much more conductive to root growth and hence the establishment of the plant. Also, plant roots need oxygen as well as moisture; plants that are planted too deeply will have a very difficult time developing a root system. Planting too deeply could damage the trunk as well.
Planting slightly above grade will insure good drainage and oxygen for the plant's root system.
PRUNE SPARINGLY AT PLANTING
Plants at Johnson's Nursery, Inc. have been regularly pruned throughout their life in our fields. Major pruning is not recommended, or necessary at planting. If you do deem pruning to be necessary remove only broken branches, dead branches or major conflicting branches.
Most plants will need some type of pruning in the future. However, pruning is an art and a science. In addition to training and experience, proper pruning also requires the proper tools. Our staff is available and eager to prune your plants for you. We can also answer your questions and help direct you should you choose to prune the plant's yourself.
PLANTING AND SOIL AMENDMENTS
So now its time to place the plant in the hole. Check the depth of the hole on last time before setting the plant. Remember the top of the ball should be 1-3" above the grade of the surrounding soil. Now carefully lift the plant by the root ball or roll it gently into the hole.
Do not remove any burlap from balled and burlapped plants. Burlap is biodegradable, roots readily grow through the burlap, and left intact the burlap helps keep the plant stable in the ball and planting hole. Likewise do not remove hemp (tan in color) twine from around the stems or trunk of your plants. Do carefully remove any twine and excess burlap around the base of the plant in 3 to 6 months after planting.
Do remove any synthetic twine (usually white) used around the trunk or stems of plants. Remove synthetic twine after the tree is in the hole and almost completely planted. Wire baskets should be left intact.
With the plant safely in the hole, it is time to backfill. The majority of your backfill should be the actual soil that came out of the hole you dug. Organic matter such as compost, plant starter or peat moss may be added to the backfill; however, it should not exceed 20% of the backfill and should be mixed thoroughly with the existing backfill soil.
Break up large clods of soil and backfill the hole in layers, gently compressing the backfill ( do not compact the soil) as you go. Water can also be used to settle the soil (2-4") at the edge of the planting hole to facilitate water and settling.
Do not place any soil over the top of the burlap (ball) or likewise over the top of the soil level in a container grown plant.
We grow plants in containers using 2 methods. Plants grown in plastic containers or bare root plants in paper containers. Plants grown in plastic containers must be removed from their containers at planting time. If roots are circling inside the container or if they appear pot bound, score the sides of the root mass with a sharp tool and spread the root mass apart at the bottom to encourage roots to spread out as they grow.
Plants in paper pots should be planted with the pot intact, if planted early in the season. Remove any portion of the paper pot that is above ground. Later in the season the pot may be removed.
Plants in containers should also be planted slightly above existing grade 1-2". Keep in mind you must gauge the hole size by the depth of the soil mass not by the depth of the container. Perennials and ground covers grown in small pots should be planted level with grade.
FERTILIZING
Do not fertilize at planting time; instead allow the plant to reestablish itself before trying to stimulate growth. We typically recommend NutriPak® Controlled Release Fertilizer Packets as fertilizer at time of planting. This product is a pre-measured, slow-release fertilizer which provides fertilizer over a three year period.
WATERING
Water thoroughly at planting time. Soak the root mass and surrounding soil until it is saturated. Water gently but completely. Avoid pistol nozzles which blast foliage or soil. See our brochure on proper watering for future watering schedule. Do not water new trees and shrubs daily which will leat to water logged soils detrimental to the plant.
MULCHING
Mulching with shredded bark pays big dividends for plant health and establishment. Mulching preserves soil moisture, moderates soil temperature and inhibits weed growth. Bark mulches slowly biodegrade, building soil organic matter, enhancing the soil for healthy roots and plants.
Mulch new tree and shrub plantings to a dept of 3-4". The larger the area mulched the better. Keep bark mulches away from the trunk, stems and crowns of plants. See diagram on previous page.
STAKING
Typically, if properly planted, trees do not need to be staked. Avoid staking if possible, if you feel staking is necessary keep these points in mind. 2" wide polypropylene strapping (or similar material) is the preferred material to use to stake trees. A wide soft material helps minimize any abrasion of trunk tissue. Plan on removing staking material in about 1 year if tree is firm in its planting state.
We hope this information proves helpful for you. As always, if you ever have questions, pleas call us.
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